Wednesday, November 13, 2019

Korea Stories - Part 3 - #MadAboutFlowers


I've been back for 5 days and I am still fangirling South Korea. There is so much I have seen, experienced and learned. Expect more posts about #SouthKorea. 

This blog is all about how South Koreans are #MadAboutFlowers. And so am I.


I noticed the flowers first on the highway drive between Incheon Airport to Gimpo Airport. I am sure, now, that there were flowers in the airport, but my sleepy fogged out brain did not register it. 

On the drive between the two airports I noticed bright flowers on the safety railings on the side of the road, and I thought, "so pretty".  

In no way did the trip between airports, prepare me for the riot of colors, forms & structures of flower arrangements that I was going to see in Korea.

I soon noticed that there were flowers on lampposts, in huge cauldrons on streets, and in baskets in front of shops & cafes.


Large road crossings have flower arrangements as do bridges. Solely for the pleasure of citizens and tourists.

Then there are the parks and gardens. Every city has these green zones. Consciously planned and planted to be more than just the lungs of the city. They are planted , maintained,  manicured artistically and color co-ordinated for people to enjoy, relax, and.... take pictures.
Even more elaborate are the arrangements in the temple complexes. A feast for the eyes that needs a dedicated post.

Every house / apartment / dwelling has flowers. On windowsills, on the side of driveways & doors, in gardens big and some seriously handkerchief sized. 

It looks like every Korean home has someone with a green thumb. 

Even the Ginseng Museum had a bouquet carved out of ginseng. 

Truly, they are #MadAboutFlowers. 

In a good way. In a fun way. In a way the gives pleasure.

The interesting thing I noticed was that the gargantuan volume of flowers are in pots. No one, literally, no one, ever picked up and walked away with a pot. No one plucked a flower. 
Unlike what happens so often in Indian parks and public spaces. Every time I walk in the park at home, there will be people who pluck flowers for pooja, depriving everyone, other than themselves and their God, the pleasure of nature's bounty. 

I am going to come back to this post just to enjoy the colors and remember how they made me feel.

These photos were taken in autumn. Summer must be a dream.

Thursday, November 7, 2019

Korea Stories - Part 2 - The Best Buddhist Temple Food

One of the big tourist attractions in Korea is a Buddhist Temple stay. It is a way to immerse yourself in the life of a monk for a few hours or a few days. While I did not do this, I did the second best thing - had the most sumptuous Buddhist temple food at Sanchon (http://www.sanchon.com/home/index.php)

Travelling and eating in Korea for a vegetarian is difficult. So, to find Sanchon was a blessing. It is tucked away in a by-lane off Insadong main market street. Our taxi driver had to call the restaurant and someone came to the market street to escort us. Here is a map to help you find the place (Red marks the spot, green is Insadong market street)

Inside, the first thing I was asked to do was wash my hands. I spent more time looking at the sink and porcelain figures, absorbing the feel of green vegetation shadows thru gentle sunlight and inhaling deeply the pure smell of rice cooking and less time on washing my hands in cold clear water.

Sanchon has a fixed 4 course vegetarian meal for lunch. Each course has a minimum of 5 items. Starting with pine tea that tasted more like wine :-)
and ending with cinnamon tea and 4 types of fritters.
This meal for 2 is sumptuous and way too much to eat in one sitting, so be ready to loosen your belt in the middle of the meal. Also, walking down Insadong street for a couple of hours after the meal helps a bit! Here are some photos of the dishes. 
There is also a hot soup that comes bubbling to the table.
Sanchon's ambience is calming - obviously an aid to tasting flavours, experiencing textures, appreciating the temperature differences of the dishes, taking in the vibrant colors, and not to forget, digestion.
Even the restroom is beautiful, filled with original art.
There is a little store on the side, where you can buy some of the dry foods you just ate - fritters, chips, seaweed, etc. And bowls, chopsticks, local artifacts.
Sanchon is owned by a former 
Buddhist monk Jungsan Kim Yun-sik, who was a monk for 17 years. As a monk he learned to cook temple food and has curated the best temple cusines from accross Korean monestries to create the menu.
Note: This meal is expensive, but so worth every penny, cent, paise, won or any other currency you may be familier with.

Saturday, November 2, 2019

Korea Stories - Part 1

So impressed with South Korea! 4 days here and I am already recommending it as a lace to vacation. Why? 
It starts with the beginning of the journey.

1. Korean Airlines aircraft and staff. Seats and screens are bigger. There is more legroom. And every seat has a USB port to plug in a device - even small domestic flights. Our international flight was not full so the staff booked passengers in thier seat-of-choice and well spread apart so that everyone could have a vacant seat next to them. 
2. Easy airport transfers. They think about what people need and plan for it. From quick and easy baggage retrieval to portable wifi rental to transfers between international and  domestic airport, via an amazingly comfortable dot-on-time limolusine bus. All payments are electronic so no need for money exchange / cash.
3. Helpful. Tho' language is a problem if you don't know Korean. People are helpful. They will walk with you to show you where to go. Or another patron will jump in to help translate. Or one staff member will ask a colleage to interpret our English (or the crazy, often epeleptic gestures we make).
4. Food. If you are a vegetarian life is gonna be more than tough. Say "No beef, no pork, no chicken, no fish, no shrimp, no meat. Only vegetables." In that order. Find a local to write it out in Korean. There is amazing vegetarian Korean food. Mainly side dishes, but so flavourful that it can be a main meal.
5. Flowers. They are everywhere. In gardens (including potted gardens). In parks. On shop counters. In large pots on sidewalks. On bridges. Even in pots hung on the side of the road. 
I am here in autumn and can only imagine the riot of colors in summer.
More on my trip soon in another post.

Wednesday, October 30, 2019

Deepawali 2019

This Deepawali, may we appreciate, protect and grow the light of nature in our lives. The real dhan (wealth) we have. May this wealth grow by leaps and bounds.

Wednesday, May 1, 2019

When we'll meet again

We'll meet again when celebration beckons us
We'll meet again when the rhythm of our clocks sync
We'll meet again when we are sad or lonely
We'll meet again when the fancy takes us
We'll meet again when chance brings us to the same place
We'll meet again when our cycles coincide
We'll meet again when friends invite us together
We'll meet again as many times as we can 

The question is not why we'll meet again, but when
We'll meet again

We'll meet again : Life and Death

We'll meet again said Life to Death
As she hobbled towards him
Body spent, soul bright.

We'll meet again said Death to little Life
As she flew past him
Too swift and small to catch.

Life's wings flapped furiously
Eager for the many happy moments, till,
Death would catch her
On his lucky day.

#NaPoWriMoXTTT

Wednesday, November 8, 2017

You And I Are Responsible For NCR's Pollution

8 Nov 2017: Rachna Singh Ganguli
drives to office in Noida;
coping with palpitations and panic
Yes! We are!! You and I. We are responsible for the death chamber that we now live in. 

Over the last couple of days, all of social media seems to be filled with pictures of the pollution smog that is suffocating the city, the PM levels, what to do to protect ourselves, and statements that hold the government wholly and solely responsible for shaving years off our lives. 

Two years ago I wrote a post with what I thought were Simple Suggestions to Reduce Delhi's Pollution. I sent it to agencies that I thought could do something. Something that would prevent pollution. Some of the suggestions have been implemented (in part), and some haven't. 

But is the government the only entity responsible for the death-grip we are in today? 

8 Nov 2017: Meenu Iyer photographs
the haze over Surajkund Road &
Aravali stretch
I say "No"! You and I are. 

And I hear your indignation when you ask me, "Why?". Here's why.......
  1. If you burst crackers for Deepawali or Chaat Puja or a wedding or India's various sports wins, you are a part of the problem
  2. If you drive a diesel car, you are a part of the problem
  3. If you have not 'pollution checked' your vehicle, you are a part of the problem
  4. If you have done any construction in Oct or Nov, you are a part of the problem
  5. If you drive to a place you can easily walk to, you are a part of the problem
  6. If you don't use public transport whenever you can, you are a part of the problem
  7. If you insist on sending your children to school in a car when they can use a school bus, you are a part of the problem
  8. If you have cut down a tree, or covered up greenery, you are a part of the problem
  9. If you have not greened your home, you are a part of the problem
  10. If you have burned trash or leaves, you are a part of the problem
  11. If you have kept quiet as you watched leaves / crops / rubbish being burnt, you are a part of the problem
  12. If you are not conserving electricity, you are a part of the problem
  13. If you have not started car pooling, you are a part of the problem
  14. If you have not advocated for work-from-home options, or shuttle services or anything that will reduce pollution, you are a part of the problem
  15. If you have not lobbied with your government representative to do something to restrict & reduce pollution, you are a part of the problem
I have been guilty of may of these these myself and I have decided that I will do at least one thing to help make a positive impact. Throughout the year. Consistently. Thoughtfully. 

Here are some actions you and I can take, in addition to not doing the 15 things listed above, that I believe can help.

  1. Don't wash your car, use the same water to wash the dust off the leaves of trees near your home.
  2. Grow plants. Any plants. Green your balcony, your driveway, your terrace. Anything really.
  3. Reduce, reuse, recycle. Everything. 
  4. Reduce electricity consumption specifically.
  5. Do not burn crackers ever. Not for Christmas. Not for New Year's. Never.
  6. If you head a business, ask everyone who can, to work-from-home for a few days. Then work on making this a large scale initiative.

Tell me what you plan to do specifically to reduce pollution. 

You and I have to be a part of the solution. 

For if we stay a part of the problem, we are killing each other.

And committing suicide.

So stop cribbing and do something!

Friday, February 10, 2017

She Blew My Mind!!

Met a woman today who blew my mind. As is my wont, I chat with cab and auto-rickshaw drivers, servers in restaurants, household help, vegetable and fruit wallahs, et al. It gives me a more holistic view of people and their lives. And it teaches me heaps.

Today, I met and chatted with Sarita Dixit who drives a Meru cab. I was frustrated with not being able to find a single OLA or Uber to get me to a important meeting, so I called Meru. I expected a male driver to call me (talk about stereotyping!) and I was lucky to get Sarita. As she drove me to Gurgaon, in unbelievably heavy traffic, we chatted. I asked decidedly invasive personal questions and she answered me with great honesty and dignity.  Here is her story (almost in her own words, converted from Hindi as best as I can).

Sarita was married at the age of 16. A school girl who knew nothing of life, having really not lived life to have enjoyed it. She was married for 4 years to a man who beat her at will. She accepted that being beaten was something that just happened. If a woman hit anyone, she was called shameless. But when a man hit a woman there was no shame, so it was OK.

In 2012, when she was 20, her husband died in an accident. Her in-laws threw her out of the house, saying that they had no use for her or her 4 month old child. She went to live with her parents, and learned to drive. At first she did private contract driving for JNU professors and then for some NGOs.  Then in 2014, she was a part of the first batch of women trained to be drivers by Meru. 

She tells me that she works hard. She is at the end of a 24 hour shift (worrying, no?) She wants to earn enough to support her parents, and ensure her son has a good education. Hard work does not bother her at all. 

I decide to take Sarita for coffee and a sandwich at Barista (I've had to cancel my meeting in Gurgaon due to traffic jams, and she hasn't eaten for hours). We continue to chat.

We chat about her safety as a woman driver specially in early morning and late night trips. She says she is prepared. She has learned self defense, and has a panic button in her car. She works for Meru as Meru has verified passengers. Also that the police are very supportive of women cab drivers. 

The biggest detractors to her career has been relatives & neighbors and male commercial drivers. Relatives and neighbors tut-tut at her wearing trousers and working outside the house and at all odd hours. They want her to get married again. She does not want to be dependent on a man. Male commercial drivers resent a woman taking their job. Her take - its not their job. They are not as good at it as she is - so - it is her job. Let them beat her if they can!


What does she need? Sarita wants more public restrooms (she is recovering from a kidney infection caused by holding her urine for hours). She wants help to understand and utilize government schemes for the poor. 

She leaves me her number and asks me to call her if ever I need a cab.

And she blows my mind away!

Sunday, December 4, 2016

Simple Insights & A Story On Gender Diversity


Diversity Dialogs' Logo
I continue to chat with my father on gender and gender diversity.

A little more background on my father, Anna. He was born into a family that was not well off, with 10 children (7 of them girls). His mother was a strong woman. As were many of his sisters. He saw and lived thru' the struggles of his mother and his sisters (and there were many). I think his perspective on equal rights for women came from some of those experiences.

Anna insisted that we all study what we want and for however long we want. That we ask questions. That we experience the different. And that we work and became financially independent. Tho' Amma, my mother did not work, Anna and Amma would always say to us, "Do whatever you want. Just ensure you earn enough to support yourself."

Here are some more snippets of our dialogs.

Snippet 4 - The right to worship


Anna and I watch the news of women entering Haji Ali after 5 years.

Anna: What is happening?

Me: Anna for many years, women have been fighting legal battles and protesting to get equal access to places of worship. Like to Sabarimala, Haji Ali, Shani Shingnapur.

Anna: Why?

Me: Anna, women believe that they have as much right to worship their Gods as men do. And that religious institutions can not restrict them based on gender.

Anna: But every religion has the right to manage its religious affairs.  How did this change? Was it the court?

Me: Anna, I understand that the Dargah Trustees listened to the Supreme Court and made provisions to enable women and men to worship at Haji Ali.

Anna: It is a good start. I hope that other religions and shrines learn from this and make worship equal for all.

Snippet 5 - The Treatment of Widows


A child widow. From the movie "Water"
Anna: Only in Hinduism do we uglify our widows.

I am sure there is no such word as "uglify" in the English language, but I let it pass. I am sure that the conversation will be more interesting than correct English.

Me: Anna, why do you think that widows are treated so badly?

Anna: It was a way to subdue widows. Their heads were shaved. They were made to wear drab white. They were starved. Kept hidden away from people. All this was to make sure that no one would find her attractive and marry her. It was a way to keep wealth and property in the family.

Long Pause.

Anna: How could we forget that she was a daughter and sister first, and then a wife and mother. Treating your daughter, sister, or mother so badly is against humanity.

Long Pause.

Anna: Relationships are more important that state of a person.

Snippet 6 - One Child Can Make A Change 


My maternal grandfather, PR Krishnarao
Me: Anna, you remember the story about Daddy and his mother?

Daddy was what we called our maternal grandfather.

Anna nods his head. I get the feeling that recalling the story is too much of a strain for him.  So I retell him the story.

Me:
Anna, remember Daddy lost his father when he was very young. He was brought up by his widowed mother in his uncle's house. Daddy was sent to a nearby school to study.

When he was 8 or so, he had his first "exam". Being a studious boy, Daddy studied hard for his first examination test.

On the day of the exam, as he was leaving the house, Daddy looked everywhere for his mother. He wanted to see her face and get her blessings, but she was nowhere to be found. Finally, he heard her sobbing behind a locked door. When he asked her to come out so that he could see her face before he went for his exam, Daddy was told by his uncle that he could not see his mother. After all Daddy's first real exam was an auspicious occasion and it could not be cursed by even the shadow of a widow. His mother was considered the widow who had brought bad luck to the family and hence she would bring Daddy bad luck.

However, that 8 year old boy did not listen to the "curse of the widow". Stubbornly he told his uncle that he would not go to school for his exam if he could not see his mother's face and get her blessings. Threats were made, doomsday tales of perpetual ill luck were told but Daddy would not be swayed. He sat outside the locked door and would not budge. Till finally his uncle relented and opened the door. Daddy saw his widowed mother's face, asked for her blessings, and ran all the way to school, reaching just in time for the test. And he did extremely well.

As the story goes, after that day, no one in the house could ever claim that his widowed mother was the harbinger of bad luck.

Anna is slowly nodding his head as I recount this story and smiling a little. He has probably heard this story a thousand times.

Anna: See, even an 8 year old child can cause change. That is what we need. One child, one change, one family at time.



.... Watch this space for more snippets as our dialoging continues